Lombok: Mount Rinjani Tour – Experience report on climbing the volcano

My girlfriend had warned us, but we were looking forward to the challenge of climbing Rinjani, Indonesia’s second highest volcano. We like to run – in the jungle, on mountains or through cities – so the Rinjani shouldn’t be a big problem. At least we thought so.

Since we decided to do it spontaneously and were not equipped for a 3-day tour to a 3,726 meter high volcano, we had some concerns. But the touring salesman assured us that it wouldn’t be a problem and all we needed was sneakers and some warm clothes. On the mountain, temperatures quickly drop to near freezing.

You can book the tour in Senggigi, for example in Sonya’s homestay. We paid 100,000 rupiah (less than 15 $) for one night at Sonya’s – including very good WiFi and a delicious breakfast.

Senggigi is on the west coast of Bali’s neighboring island of Lombok. If you start the Rinjani tour from here, you will be picked up around 5 am and taken to Senaru, which is two hours away. There is a guest house where you can store your big backpack and have breakfast. From the terrace, you also already have a great view of the volcano.

In the guest house, we struck up a conversation with a slightly older man who actually thought that we would stay at this accommodation. He obviously wasn’t properly briefed about the tour and had no idea what to expect. Namely this: run, eat lunch, run some more, have dinner, sleep in tents, get up incredibly early, run, lunch, run, etc.

Although he had only booked the 2-day tour, he ultimately only made it to the camp thanks to the help of his group members. They took turns carrying his backpack while he struggled up the steep paths. So you see, the tour sellers don’t necessarily give you a realistic assessment, they want one thing above all: your money.

Speaking of money. In our group of 10 people, almost everyone paid a different price. For example, we even preferred to pay more because we hoped for such an experienced guide and well-paid porters. The Rinjani ascent is not without its dangers. People keep dying on this mountain.

We paid 1,750,000 rupiah (approx. 120 $) per person for the three days including food and transport. On the first evening, however, it turned out that four of our group members had only paid 1.2 million rupiah and got better tents, better sleeping bags, and better insulating mats.

In our day packs we had:

• Jackets
• Neckerchiefs or a sarong (which is great as a blanket, cloth, face protection, full-body warmer).
• Oreos
• Socks
• Swimwear
• Toothbrushes
• Flashlight
• Really good running Shoes (hiking shoes would be ideal)
• Gloves
• Caps
• Eye Protection

You get water from the so-called porters. They also carry the tents, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, all the food, and cooking utensils – in baskets attached to a bamboo pole!

What we found really impressive was the cooking skills of our porters. Every day they conjured up super-delicious meals in the middle of nowhere: sometimes there was vegetable noodle soup with rice and eggs, sometimes fried noodles. The dessert consisted mostly of fresh pineapple.

The first stage took us through the jungle. Not all groups start this way. Some climb Rinjani from the other side and have to struggle up the mountain on the first day under the blazing sun on a completely unprotected and extremely dusty route.

After lunch in the jungle it got steeper and more strenuous. As soon as you leave the forest, you have to fight your way further up on quite dusty ground. So you need good stamina.

Shortly before dusk we finally reached our camp, which consisted only of tents. Do not be under any illusions: there is no washing area or separate toilet area. But a breathtaking view of the summit, the crater lake and the small volcano in the crater lake. It’s worth the effort for this view and the sunset above the clouds. Promised!

As soon as it gets dark, it’s cold on the mountain. Long trousers, long-sleeved shirts and a windproof jacket are essential. In our porters’ tent there were a few lamps and a small fire burning, but otherwise it was pitch black. So be sure to bring your flashlight.

The second day started shortly after 6 a.m. – in time for sunrise, which was not nearly as beautiful as the sunset the previous evening. After breakfast, which consisted of a banana pancake, jam toast and tea, we headed towards the crater lake. While our porters packed up the tents and the cooking places, we tried to overcome the stone path to the lake without accidents. You have to be extremely careful there and sometimes climb a bit. There are almost no ropes to hold on to. There used to be railings, but they are now only half attached to the mountain.

By the way, the porters overtook us on the open track – in flop flops and half running. It’s really fascinating to watch these men dashing up and down the mountain with their heavy and unwieldy luggage.

Near the lake are the hot springs where we were allowed to relax for an hour just before lunch. We were finally able to wash the dust and sweat of the last 36 hours off our bodies. Incidentally, the sulphurous water does not stain light-colored bathing suits yellow.

Last night was short. At 3 a.m. we were about to climb the summit. Note: When you think it can’t get any worse/tougher, it gets worse and harder. The way to the summit was by far the most strenuous route we have ever walked!

Weakened from the past two days, with only a few biscuits in our stomachs, freezing and armed with a flashlight (you won’t see anything on the route without it) we set off. After the first 5 minutes I already hated it. The path or path consists of volcanic ash, in which you will not find any footing and will constantly slide back. It’s hell, I can’t put it any other way. After each step, you slide back three. And the way never ends.

Once we fought our way to the rim of the crater, there was also a nasty, freezing wind that felt like pinpricks in our faces and drove the volcanic dust into our eyes, so we stumbled on half-blind. And right on the edge of the crater. One step too far to the right and we would have slid right into the crater. The whole thing is extremely dangerous and, in our opinion, totally unnecessary.

The group was led by a porter, our guide brought up the rear and wanted to make sure that everyone came with us or that those who couldn’t make it went back. However, at some point the guide simply overtook us and left us behind.

I’m a really ambitious person, but just before the summit I seriously asked myself why I was doing this to myself. I was totally weak, my whole body was shaking like a leaf, my hands and ears were numb from the cold, my lips were blue, dry and cracked, and my eyes were full of dust. Then there was the altitude. We climbed 900 to 1,000 meters in altitude that night alone!

At some point we both couldn’t answer the question why we were doing this to ourselves, which is why we crouched behind a large stone shortly before the summit, pulled the sarong over us to protect us from wind, dust and cold and waited until it got light . At sunrise, which was no compensation for this morning madness, we ran back or rather slipped because the volcanic ash just doesn’t make it possible to walk normally.

Back at the camp we ate pancakes, toast and tea for breakfast and tried to regain our senses, enjoy the view and mobilize the last of our strength, because the way back wasn’t a walk either. Be prepared for a lot of dust on which you will slip and slide more than you will walk. The fast pace of the guide and our group didn’t really make things any easier.

In the early afternoon, after a last delicious lunch, we were down again and were driven back to Senaru on the back of a pick-up, where we all threw ourselves on the tap to at least wash our dirty faces and hands to some extent.

All in all we were happy and proud to have done the tour. It’s a truly unique experience that pushes you to your limits. The tour is for you if…

• you like to run long distances
• are not afraid of heights.
• it is not a problem for you to go to the toilet in the great outdoors.
• you have stamina and are in good physical condition.

If you want to save yourself the last stage, the summit hell, you can also book a 2-day tour . This tour takes you to the crater lake.

Transport to Gili Meno was included in our ticket price. The Gili Islands are located in the northwest of Lombok and are the ideal place to relax after such a tour. We particularly recommend Gili Meno, because not everything is built there yet, the beaches are not paved with deckchairs, bars, rubbish and rubble and you can cure all Rinjani strains and injuries in this idyll. For example, we had a few bruises from falling, chapped lips and a bruise on our big toe from running fast downhill.

From Bali you have the option of taking the ferry to Lombok . The drive from Padangbai (port city at the very east of Bali) to Lembar takes 3 hours. From there it is another 2 hours drive to Senggigi. Incidentally, from Senggigi you can also go on wonderful moped tours to waterfalls and beautiful bays and beaches.

There is also an airport on Lombok. There are non-stop flights to Singapore , Kuala Lumpur , Bali and Jakarta , among others .

Finally, a few quick tips for your stay on Lombok.