Komodo: visiting the last dragons

Dragons exist not only in legends and fairy tales but also in reality. Well, they don’t exactly breathe fire, but you shouldn’t get too close to them.

And if you’re now wondering what this is all about, then I’ll tell you: I’m talking about the Komodo dragons, which are called “dragons” in Indonesia. The animals are always primal.

To visit them in their natural habitat you have to go to Indonesia, Komodo or Rinca to be exact. These islands are east of Bali and it takes quite a bit of effort to get there.

You have the choice between several alternatives: The fastest option is by plane. From Bali or Java you fly to Labuan Bajo on Flores and from there take part in an organized trip to Komodo and Rinca. You can’t stay overnight on the two islands themselves – and to be honest, it’s not very exciting there either, apart from the dragons.

In my opinion, the most strenuous option is by bus. Tourist buses travel through Sumbawa in one go from Bali or Lombok. Then it’s eight hours by ferry to Flores. With a bit of luck and without breakdowns, you’ll be on the road for about 24 hours. The buses vary from narrow sardine cans to luxury buses.

The longest and most varied option is to go by boat from Lombok in four days and three nights. Depending on the provider and the equipment on the boat, the prices are between around US$ 125 and US$ 850. Lombok offers are generally cheaper than Bali.

But be careful, the variant can also be the most dangerous journey, because not only one ship has already gone down. A lot depends on the condition of the boat and the crew.

If everything goes well, or there are only minor glitches, then this is the most beautiful way to travel to the dragons. You slowly watch the islands pass you by and observe how the character of the landscape changes. You’ll have plenty of snorkeling opportunities and also discover the islands that lie along the way. It’s worth taking the ship for that alone.

The sunsets on the sea are magnificent and this cruise is sure to be an experience you will remember for a long time.

Incidentally, all three travel options apply in both directions. For example, you can take the ship to Flores and return by bus or vice versa.

In any case, you should compare the prices, especially for the boat tour, because there can be significant differences, and admission to the national park is not always included. If you paid for it at the same time, have that noted on the ticket.

If you don’t fly, you should allow at least 4 days for the round trip. If you choose the cruise, you can calculate a week.

Labuan Bajo is the largest town on Flores and if you want to go to Komodo then there is no getting around it.

Roughly speaking, the place consists of guest houses, restaurants, bars and diving schools. There are also travel agencies that offer tours to Komodo and Rinca. You can also get the tickets back to Lombok or Bali there.

You will find both low-budget accommodation and more comfortable guest houses with air conditioning. Popular is the tourist mile Jl. Soekarno Hatta, where the pubs and bars are. The restaurants serve both Indonesian and Western cuisine and there are at least three Italians. In the evenings it’s party time in the pubs with happy hour and regional schnapps.

The diving spots off Flores are excellent. If you dive or want to get your diving license, then you will feel comfortable here, for all other visitors the city offers relatively little. The fish market is still the highlight.

But you didn’t come here to see the city, you came to see the kites.

If you arrive with the four-day boat tour, you will stay overnight on the ship and call at Komodo and Rinca on the last day.

For the national park (both islands) an entrance fee of 225,000 IDR (approx. 15 euros) is due and there is also a fee for the rangers. This varies depending on the group size. There is one ranger for every five visitors, at least that’s how we calculated it, and they then share the fee of 80,000 IDR (approx. 5.50 euros) per ranger. But whether the latter is really an official fee, I’m not entirely sure.

I did a one-hour hike on both islands. The rangers explain the route in advance and give you tips on how to behave. The rule of thumb is: just stay behind the guys with the forked sticks and don’t leave the paths. By the way, they don’t have any other weapons to keep the dragons in check.

The two islands are quite barren. Even if you walk through the forest, it has more of a mixed forest character than a jungle.

And to be honest: The chances of encountering one of the Komodo dragons during the hike are rather small. If there are 10, 15 or 20 people walking through the landscape, the animals usually disappear. On the other hand, what you will almost certainly see are the small deer, the favorite food of the dragons.

But don’t worry, there is a high probability that you will still see dragons on both islands. The tours start and end at the ranger stations where there are a few smaller houses and one of them is the kitchen. Of course, everyone swears stone and bone that the dragons are not fed, but I have my doubts.

The trip to the last dragons is definitely worth it and will definitely be a highlight of your Indonesia tour.